Farewell Bahamas

We spent the final few weeks of The Ryba Family Sabbatical in Spanish Wells, where it began 4 months earlier. Once tied up at the familiar docks of the Yacht Haven, we were greeted by “Bill Something,” a crusty Canadian retiree who had been living aboard at the marina since the early days of the pandemic. 

Evidently, Bill remembered us from late December. And in particular, he recalled some conflict when we first moved aboard the OG. Cordially, however, Bill asked how the trip had gone and commented that “your kids really did not want to get onto that boat, especially the one with the short hair.”

We celebrated the completion of our trip at Buddha’s Snack Shack, where we spent Christmas and New Years, months before. After ordering some rum drinks for the kids and fried cheese for the adults—all appreciative of the familiar surroundings and proud of our collective accomplishment—everyone was tasked with identifying something enjoyable about the trip. Evelyn (“the one with the short hair”) went first: “There’s just too many; we swam with sea turtles and fed hot dogs to reef sharks. . . it’s hard to pick one.” So, shut-up Bill.

We spent the final few weeks in familiar surroundings, with familiar people. One of the amazing things about cruising as a family is that everyone, somehow, remembers you. The check-out girl at “Food & Stuff,” the waitresses at Wreckers and at the Sandbar, and even Buddha himself—all asked how the trip had gone. Some remembered us by name. To others we were simply “that family from Chicago.” 

Late morning on March 24, John and Susu Callahan, along with their two golden retrievers, sailed into the Yacht Haven. We had buddy-boated with the Callahans since Staniel Cay and evidently Joy talked them into sailing north to Spanish Wells for my birthday. A great way to celebrate yet another year of my late-thirties. We drank good booze and ate adequate food at Wreckers and Buddha’s while E&F played with the retrievers. It was a pleasure spending time with some of the lovely people we met along this journey. 

After a few days enjoying Spanish Wells with the Callahans, we helped them deliver their boat Epique, through the “Devil’s Backbone” into Harbor Island. The “Devil’s Backbone” is a shallow passage through a jagged-edged reef, located about 1.4nm northeast of Spanish Wells. Because it has claimed more vessels than any other reef in the country, most hire a local guide to navigate the shoals. Our guide was none other than “Bandit,” who had grown even more surly since advising me that my charts were “for shit” in early December. 

We parted ways with the Callahans in Remora Bay with tentative plans to meetup on the east coast of the US in early fall. Cheers Epique! We’ll see you on the other side.

We spent the last week of the Sabbatical at a beach-side cottage with the Brummel family, who flew from Chicago to meet us for Easter break. Their presence over the next seven days effectively kept full-scale depression at bay as we started to plan for a return to the real world. We swam and kayaked, played with seaturtles and stingrays. It was a pleasure sharing this area of the Bahamas with longtime friends from home.

Goodbye and Thank you, Olivia Grace

From April 3-8 we prepared the OG for its trip back to the US. We moved all of our clothes and personal belongings from the boat. I changed the oil, fuel filters and the drive belt; filled the fuel tank and emptied the water tanks. We cleaned out the cabin, defrosted the fridge and emptied the liquor cabinet. Once finished, everyone was required to say “Good bye” and “thank you” to the OG for being our home and keeping us safe these past four months. 

We surrendered our cruising permit on April 8 and checked the OG out of Bahamas. The customs officer asked “why are you leaving so soon? You have 7 months left on your permit.” But, it’s time to get the kids back in school, and Evelyn graduates in a few weeks. As much as Joy and I would like to simply point the bow south again, it’s time to go home.

On the afternoon of April 9, the Olivia Grace motored out the Spanish Wells inlet, without a Ryba at the helm or even on board. We are grateful to this boat for keeping us safe and for supporting our family, not just for the last four months, but for the last six years. But now she is off to support new adventures with her new family in Annapolis. 

Each of us is also grateful for this time away. The last four months have been filed with intense highs and equally intense lows. This was not designed to be a vacation. As parents, Joy and I have learned so much about our children. With any luck, E&F have learned something positive about themselves; perhaps greater self-reliance, perseverance, and self confidence. Hopefully, some respect for their surroundings, forces of nature and wildlife. Without question, we’ve grown closer as a family. And for that, we are truly grateful.